We will start heading north from Aus in the direction of Betta. Our route hugs the contours of mountains like the Tiras Mountains to the east, with the red dunes of the Namib west of the road for long stretches of our journey. The D707 is known as one of Namibia’s most scenic roads, so we take our time here and stop to take photos whenever something catches the eye.

Betta is nothing more than a farmyard with a campsite, coffee shop (they bake a very good carrot cake!), and fuel station but being situated in such an expanse gives it a real spirit of place. We will camp nearby on the desert plains, where ancient camel thorn trees stand like sentinels.

From Betta we will drive north to Sesriem, still following the edge of the desert. The road takes us through the Namibrand Private Reserve where good rains fell this summer. As a result, we will find wildlife like ostrich, springbok, gemsbok and Hartmann’s mountain zebra on the grass- covered plains. We’ll stop to take photos (pack your zoom lens!) whenever the mood strikes.

We will camp at Sesriem for two nights. Sesriem (fuel and shop available) is the gateway to this section of the Namib Naukluft National Park, and we’ll visit Sesriem Canyon with its unique geology. Sunset can be enjoyed at the campsite or at Elim Dune, close by.

We will get up early the next morning and enter the park. This area, also called the Namib Sand Sea, is a World Heritage Site. We’ll head straight to Dune 45 and climb it to the top to enjoy a spectacular sunrise. Back at our vehicles we will enjoy hot coffee and a light breakfast before driving deeper into the desert to Sossusvlei and Dead Vlei.

Along the way we’ll see evidence of 2021’s good rains. Sossusvlei flooded towards the end of summer and we might still find some water in the vlei during our visit. Either way, photographic potential here is huge, with exquisite dune crests, tree silhouettes (especially in Dead Vlei), mud cracks and wildlife (the water has attracted birdlife, including raptors).

We will enjoy lunch in the shade of a camel thorn tree at Sossusvlei. After lunch you can head back to Sesriem in your own time or stay on with Toast to wait for the late afternoon light in Dead Vlei. Magic hour, indeed!

We leave Sesriem and drive towards the Naukluft Mountains. We sleep at Tsauchab River Camp – the Tsauchab being the very same river which carries water down the Sesriem Canyon and into Sossusvlei. Our campsite has an unexpected attraction: a wild fig tree forest! We’ll also photograph some of owner Johan Steyn’s quirky scrap metal sculptures situated at the reception area.

Late afternoon we head out for a photographic treat when we explore a little-known but spectacular quiver tree forest on the lower slopes of the Naukluft Mountains. These charismatic tree aloes always make for striking photos.

We will drive past the farm Bullsport and through a valley bordering the north-eastern side of the Naukluft massif. Here we will stop to look at a “fossilised” waterfall before continuing to Solitaire, the unofficial capital of the Namib. Known for its fresh bread and Apfelstrudel, you can also buy cold drinks, snacks and books at the shop at Solitaire (they also have fuel).

We will spend the night at the nearby farm of desert guide Boesman Davids and his wife, Yuri. Boesman is known for his Sossus On Foot excursions and will lead us on a short but very informative walk in the dunes on his farm, where we’ll be introduced to the small creatures that inhabit this ecosystem.

At our campsite there are a few quiver trees which we can photograph at night, playing around with artificial light sources. The water trough here also attracts game like gemsbok, zebra and springbok.

Early risers can join Toast on a short trip to a nearby fossilised dune for a sunrise shoot. After breakfast we say goodbye to Boesman and Yuri and drive through the rugged Gaub and Kuiseb passes before entering the Namib Naukluft National Park again.

We’ll soon see our destination in the distance. Mirabib is an inselberg which rises prominently from the quartzite plains. With luck we’ll see game (even cheetahs periodically roam here) which eke out an existence in this extreme environment.

Mirabib is a wilderness camp (no running water, no showers – only pit toilets) where you will experience the Namib in all its peaceful glory. Most tourists race past this part of the park, eager to get to a bigger town at the seaside. But we won’t make the same mistake and will spend sunset taking photos around camp before enjoying a night under the bright Milky Way. This is the middle of nowhere, and you’ll love every minute of it.

After breakfast we say goodbye. Our tour is over, but we’ll see you again next time!